At Eckhaus Latta, Psycho-American-Inspired Skin Shined On The Catwalk

“We don’t usually expand each model’s personal aesthetic choices too much, but it’s a really fun and temporary way to give Camilla a mullet for the day,” designer Zoe Latta tells me of the look that the interior designer Camilla Deterre was blessed. behind the scenes at Eckhaus Latta. Hairstylist Tamara McNaughton calls Deterre’s new trompe l’oeil look the “Bushwick Mule.”

Standing next to the endless supply of Aqua hair extensions draped over tables and chairs inside the gymnasium at PS 064 School in the East Village, Latta flips her own blonde ponytail upside down. front to show a bleached rat tail extending six inches beyond its actual length. It’s exactly the kind of “non-traditional” beauty (think painted glittery faces and hair seemingly styled with a “greasy hand”) that she and Mike Eckhaus have cultivated for their collections. “We’re trying to make clothes that aren’t necessarily more playful in the sense that they’re goofy, but that make people feel more comfortable in their own skin; no fuss, no crazy corseting or things that need to be steamed,” she says of this season’s collection filled with textured knits, draped knits and popcorn-puffed stretch fabrics. “It goes hand in hand with beauty – I think we try to do that in our own lives. There is a kind of contentment and happiness in wearing these clothes and beauty looks.

Photographed by Hunter Abrams / @hunterabrams

Photographed by Hunter Abrams / @hunterabrams

This season, Latta likes the idea of ​​skincare being all-around makeup and credits casting director Rachel Chandler for bringing in the “best cast yet” of new talent, familiar faces and, of course, of friends. It is not a question of transforming them; it’s to enhance their natural state, to have a little fun. Paloma Elsesser sits in makeup artist Fara Homidi’s chair as the first layers of clear Freeman Beauty Infusion peel-off mask are painted onto her skin. Soon she’ll be strolling with the models, like students on a field trip, down 5th Street to El Jardin Del Paraiso for the outdoor runway with the mask still on — he is the look of a handful of cool kids.

“When I said ‘hyperrealistic skin,’ they didn’t really know what that meant,” Homidi says of his early discussions about doing something “a little weird” with the designers. “I decided to bring a plastic glass face mask into the mix, and they went crazy for it. i’m a big fan of American psychoand there’s this scene where he puts the gel mask on and talks about how he could have the warmth of a human being, but under the mask he’s just not there, and he takes it off – it’s always been something that’s on my mind.” For others, the skin was enhanced with Saie products (this is the first season they’ve sponsored the show) like Hydrabeam concealer, bronzer Sun Melt and Lip Blur Soft-Matte Hydrating Lipstick in an earthy New shade.

Photographed by Hunter Abrams / @hunterabrams

Photographed by Hunter Abrams / @hunterabrams

When McNaughton created ultra-long hair intentionally thin, she also had a movie in mind. “You [often] see that glamorous long hair, which really isn’t the vibe,” she explains. “We wanted the chic to be done in this other world, almost the Lord of the Rings really skinny hair, but having this length and this weight. As a result, McNaughton’s team would “remove the hair”, braid it close to the scalp, then attach the Aqua Extensions like sheers. Even though thickening products are booming, she’s always thought thin hair was cool. “You can see through and you can see the clothes – it’s more of a halo.”

Then, of course, there are rattails and peppery sideburns, and some will get their true polished look with a little Oribe Run-Through Detangling Primer, or rough it up with Gold Lust Dry Shampoo. “We always keep in mind who each person is,” McNaughton says of her collaboration with Eckhaus and Latta, whom she calls “the two most adorable people in fashion,” to showcase the individuality of each model rather than reducing it for the show. “I don’t want to mess with anything that looks like them.”

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